Tag: Arizona Travel

Bear Mountain Trail: Hiking the Skyline of Sedona, Arizona

Sedona is…the Arizona capital for overtourism, but it’s still worth visiting from time to time. It’s beautiful, and there are a multitude of amazing trails that you don’t want to miss. One of my personal favorites (so far) is Bear Mountain Trail, and I’m not alone as this is a trail that made it’s way into the 2021 #ILoveAZHikingChallenge list.

You will get some mind-boggling views of Sedona from the mountain, whether you make it to the summit or not. And Bear Mountain itself is a really cool, stony formation that’s a delight to walk up (even if your thighs are burning). That all being said, this is not an easy trail, and it can be dangerous if you let the “vacation spirit” get you thinking no bad can happen in Sedona. If you are in shape and/or ready to listen to your body, ready for a challenge, and respect the heat, definitely give this one a try.

When to Hike Bear Mountain Trail

(1) You are ready for the challenge

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

This trail isn’t like most of the trails that crowds of people flock to throughout the city and the surrounding landscape. It’s very difficult. You will be getting a lot of elevation gain. The trail isn’t always a maintained path- you will need to climb boulders and do some trail finding further up the mountain as you traverse the stony face of the mountain. There is very little shade and no water along the way. Furthermore, there isn’t much to do at the base of the trail. So, unless you are properly outfitted, physically ready for a challenge, and have good weather, Bear Mountain Trail probably shouldn’t be at the top of your Sedona bucketlist.

(2) You are looking for some amazing photos of Sedona

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

I’ve done quite a few hikes in Sedona and visited the town many many times over my lifetime, but I have never seen views as good as the ones I captured on this trail. I am seriously still shocked by the beauty of the pictures that I captured on Bear Mountain.

(3) You want to marvel at the geology

I don’t know the first thing about geology, I can admit that, but even so, Bear Mountain feels really special and it’s super fun to explore it (from the trail!). Besides the mountain itself, which is amazingly beautiful and sort of strange in a delightful way, you can take a peek at many geological wonders of Sedona from the trail.

Need to Know

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

Trail difficulty: Hard

Trail length: 4.9 miles

Elevation gain: 1,975 feet

Toilet at the trailhead: Yes

Entrance fee: Red Rock Pass $5.00, US National Park Annual Pass; Red Rock passes can be purchased at the trailhead

Trail Experience

bear mountain trail

Doe Mountain (c) ABR 2020

The trailhead for Bear Mountain Trail is the same as Doe Mountain (another good hike, and not as long). But for Bear Mountain, you will need to cross the highway in order to get your journey underway. (Look both ways!) After crossing the street you will have a couple minutes to warm up on the flattest part of the trail. You will dip down into a creek bed and cross a lovely little field before starting to climb up the mountain.

Red Rock Cliffs

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

The first upwards part of the hike sticks in my head because this is where the red rock really shines through. The lower part of the mountain is very red, from the dusty dirt of the trail, to the stones surrounding you. This section of the trail is a pretty steady climb, and there are a few sections where you will need to do a little bouldering. (ALWAYS wear good hiking shoes on the trail!). I’d also say that this part of the trail will be one of the most difficult for people who are uncomfortable with heights, as there are a few cliff sections.

Up the Stony Mountain

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

When you reach the top the final red cliff, you might be tempted to think that you are getting close to the summit. But that isn’t the case. The trek upwards, across the tan stone of the upper mountain and through the juniper forest is much longer than first section of elevation gain. Because the stone of the mountain IS the trail for several parts of this section of the trail, you won’t always be able to follow a trail as you might be used to if you haven’t done a ton of hiking in different environments. You will need to keep your eyes peeled for paint blotches on the stone, to guide you.

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

Be sure to take your time on the trail for both safety reasons, and to take pictures! But of course, know that you should turn around if you feel yourself getting too tired or it’s getting too hot.

Being Kind on the Trail

Also, because Sedona is suffering from overtourism, please be extra courteous while visiting here. (Be courteous everywhere, but it’s especially important in places overcrowded with visitors). On the trail, that means, letting people pass you who are hiking faster. Yield to people hiking up. Always pack out your trash! And when parking, do not create your own parking spaces. If there isn’t room for you, come back later.

How to Get There

Stay Safe on the Trail

I ALWAYS have a section about safety on the trail with my hiking guides, because I think the most important thing you can do while in nature, is protect yourself and others. Accidents do happen, but you can stay out of a lot of trouble by being prepared.

Many people look at Sedona like the Disneyland of the desert, and with the vortexes and beautiful mountains, it definitely feels magical. But that doesn’t mean that you can expect to be unprepared on the trail and always stay safe. Luckily, there are some things you can do to make sure that you have a great time, without mishaps.

(1) Bring food and water.

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

One time, while hiking Camelback Mountain, I heard someone tell a man that he was so “strong” for refusing water on the trail. Lol. No.

Not drinking water while hiking anywhere, let alone in the desert, isn’t strong, it’s stupid. And believe me, you might feel ok while you hike, but if you get dehydrated during the day, you are going to have a killer headache at night. Plus, you put yourself at higher risk for heat exhaustion or weakness on the trail.

Make sure you have enough! A single 8 oz. bottle isn’t enough unless you will be hiking 1-2 miles on flat ground. (It DEFINITELY isn’t enough for Bear Mountain trail- you should be bringing 3 liters AT LEAST for this one).

It’s always smart to couple your water in-take with some salt as well to keep your electrolytes in good balance. Bring some salty snacks like chips and jerky for this, and you can bring some sugary snacks for little boosts in energy too.

(2) Wear the right clothes.

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

Always wear good, sturdy shoes while hiking. This will help you be more sure-footed on the trail, and protect your feet from injury. People have gotten stuck on the trail because they left for a hike with flip flops on. Athletic shoes are a step up from that, but the soles don’t tend to have a good grip and cholla spines can go right through the softer material of a running shoe.

Remember, the last thing you want to get hurt while you are away on the trail, are either of your feet.

(3) Stay on the trail.

The best way to get lost is to leave the trail. Sometimes this can be accidental, but please please don’t do it willfully. Getting lost is dangerous for you, but it also puts rescuers at risk, so if it does happen to you, you don’t want it to be because you decided to explore off the trail. Furthermore, walking off the trail does damage the environment. You might think there isn’t much damage that you can do, but remember that other people might follow your tracks and following other people’s spider trails make them more established.

Just don’t do it. There are thousands of miles of trail in Arizona. There is plenty that you can see while also being responsible.

(4) Let people know where you are going.

Whether you are hiking solo or with friends, let someone who will be at home know your plans. They should know what trail you are doing, when you plan to leave and when you plan to come back. You might also let them know what vehicle you are driving, and what you are wearing, just in case. Check in with them when you leave and return.

You might also consider getting a GIS locator for extra safety. AllTrails is also a great tool for navigating the trail.

(5) Only hike in good weather.

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

Not too hot and not too cold. But seriously, it gets super hot in Sedona, just like most of the rest of Arizona. It is no joke. Don’t be caught out on the trail when it is 90 F or more. I will discuss heat further in the following section, but just keep in mind that people die from heat exposure in Arizona every year.

Storms are also of concern in the desert. We have monsoons here and those can include flash flooding and dangerous amounts of lightning. Bear Mountain Trail would leave you vulnerable to lightning strikes. It is also very steep in many places, so even hiking in just the rain could be dangerous as it would make the trail more slippery.

Take the Heat in Arizona Serious

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

I grew up in Arizona, and I always take the heat seriously. But even so, I had a run in with heat exhaustion on Bear Mountain Trail, so I think this guide is the perfect place to discuss it in more detail. This story is a tale of mistakes, so these things can happen even when you have the best intentions. That’s also why I’d like to share this with you all.

A friend and I left the trailhead early in the morning, probably around 6a, planning for the heat. But we took our time on the ascent, and we had dogs with us. So we lost a lot of time during the coolest part of our day. By the time we turned around, things had started to heat up, and we were all starting to run low on water.

It got to the point that the dogs started running ahead of us, just so they could lay down in the shade. And that got me really worried. Dogs are far more at risk for heat exhaustion and heat stroke than humans. So you really need to ideally not take your dogs when it is hot. Or really really make sure that you have enough water for them and keep them cool.

In any case, at that point, my hiking buddy also started needing to sit down in the shade to rest as we kept hiking down. And while I understood the need for rest, I also knew that the longer we spent on the trail, the hotter and hotter it was going to get. Without water and losing both shade and what coolness there was in the morning, we were not in a good situation.

What to Do

bear mountain trail

(c) ABR 2020

We were lucky that her husband was able to hike up to us with water so that everyone could rehydrate and make the last leg of the trip. But even so, by the time I made it to my car, I was feeling sick to my stomach and exhausted.

We were all at risk. We should have (1) not brought the doggies along, it was too long of a trail and too hot of a day. If it’s too hot for humans it is WAY too hot for dogs. (2) We all needed more water- we should not have run out. (3) We needed to leave earlier to make sure that we didn’t end up being out so late so that it was so hot. There was no intention for us to get in a dangerous situation. We had good shoes, we did have water, and we even left early. But with a little more planning and extra caution for our furry friends, we would have ended up with a much more pleasant experience.

More Arizona Travel Tips

Arizona is our lifelong home. If you want more tips for visiting our beautiful state, check out our Guide to Arizona. And if you are looking for more hiking inspiration, consider our guide to beautiful lake hikes near Phoenix-metro.

Planning your next trip? Save this for later on Pinterest.

A Love Letter to Arizona

Dear Arizona,

Look, I’ll just say it – I love you.

I know it’s been a long time coming, and that maybe I’ve denied it in the past.

I’m sorry if I’ve ever called you boring, or unwelcoming, or even threatened to move.

I hope you didn’t take it personally. I was young and foolish when I said all those things and hadn’t taken time to travel or open my eyes to all your wonderful features.

And what would those features be? Well, Arizona, how do I love thee?

Let me count the ways.

  1. I love your industrious, final frontier spirit.

    Somehow you got me enthralled in the mining history of many of our cities. But when you visit a town like Superior and stand amongst century-old brick buildings, frankly, it’s easy to get caught up in the romance of it all. Can you imagine leaving everything you knew behind to move westward with dreams of striking it rich?
  2. I love your ghost stories.

    The Old West was truly wild. It left behind ghost towns, usually settlements that were mining boomtowns abandoned after their mines closed. It also left behind tales of the people who lived here before us and those who may still haunt our buildings’ hallowed halls.
  3. I love your small towns.

    Globe, Kingman, Florence – Arizona has an abundance of small towns. And each of them has its own charm. These are why I hate hurrying on road trips. I always want to stop and see what little gems I can find.
  4. I love your nature.

    From desert to forest to canyon, Arizona’s landscape is beautiful. Add in a dollop of sunshine (though the summers be brutal) and you have the perfect recipe for some great outdoor trips and hikes.

So there you have it, Arizona. I hope you can forgive my past misgivings about you and accept that I’m in it for the long haul.

Yours Truly,
Katie

Want to discover your love for Arizona? Explore with us.

A Hike Worth Hollering About: Tanque Verde Falls

It’s rare for us Nightborn Travel gals to pass up a chance to hike. On our recent trip down to the Ol’ Pueblo (or Tucson, as normal people would call it) we decided to venture out to Tanque Verde Canyon for our first time hiking Tanque Verde Falls.

View from the top of the trail – close to the trailhead.

This trail is located east of Tucson, just barely outside of the city – maybe 15 to 20 minutes. Take note that the paved road leading to the trailhead becomes a dirt road, so take that into consideration if your vehicle isn’t suited for dusty and slightly bumpy (but still driveable) terrain.

A comically angry-looking cactus near the creek bed. You’re welcome.

The hike itself is only about 2 miles long, but if you want to actually make it to the falls, there’s one BIG thing to take into consideration, and that’s water. Should you bring it? Yes. But also, has it rained lately? Because if it has, the creek along the trail will be running and while it will be beautiful, it will make your hike to the falls less of a hike and more of an… attempt.

Mmmm, sweet brown rainwater. (We did not drink this water, nor do we endorse drinking this water.)

Why am I telling you this? Because it’s exactly what happened to us. We made it about halfway up the trail before a mini-waterfall blocked us from going forward. We talked to a couple locals who told us that if the creek is dry or at least more of a trickle, you can scramble your way up the falls.

The mini-waterfall that hike-blocked us.

And here’s another thing to consider, the trail going down to the creek bed is relatively easy going, but from there on you’ll be encountering rock pile after rock pile and some times it will feel less like hiking and more like bouldering.

Rocks on rocks on rocks.

That being said, the area the trail is in is wonderful and the falls are said to be worth seeing, so there’s a pretty good chance we’ll be back. And, keeping what you’ve read in mind, we’ll hope you visit, too (if you’re not a big hiker, it’s a great little spot to find a rock along the creek and relax).

Happy hiking!

xo,
Katie

Cave Creek Hiking: Go John Trail

There is alot of variety to Cave Creek hiking, and Go John Trail is one of the most well known trails in this area. In fact, it was previously showcased by Sweat Magazine as reader’s choice best hike. And all for good reason. The Go John Trail is just the right amount of challenge mixed in with all the beauty you could possibly want. Sweeping views of the Sonoran Desert, and rolling, mountainous hills, covered with saguaro. This trail will take you through lush washes, and arid landscapes. And now, after the fires of 2020, it is also home to a burn scar which will shape the landscape for years and years to come.

Whether you are a local or just visiting, if you have the time (and weather) for this trail, it is a must.

go john trail

Sonoran desert from Go John Trail (c) ABR 2018

Need to Know

Location: Cave Creek Regional Park
Run By: Maricopa County
Fee: $7 per car
General Difficulty: Moderate
Round Trip Length: 5.4-6 miles (8.7 km)
Accumulated Gain: 1,260 feet (384 meters)
Crowd Levels: Light
Other activities: Camping, picnicking, visiting the nature center (where there is a desert tortoise!)

Why Do the Go John Trail?

The first time that I did this trail, I was a little underwhelmed, particularly because the person who took me kept telling me that it was the most beautiful trail in all the metro area. I’m sure that some people would agree with her, but I am partial to Spur Cross myself, if I were to point you towards my favorite trail. In any case, in the past few years, I have returned to the Go John Trail again and again, and I’ve really gained an appreciation for this trek. I think it’s a great way to experience the Sonoran Desert, whether it is your first time or your 100th.

There is really wonderful plant biodiversity on this trail, because you get some different microbiomes. You have the arid desert, and then some slightly lusher areas when you cross some washes. On wildflower years, I have seen all kinds of beautiful blooms here. And there are some extremely impressive saguaro along the trail as well. Likewise, there are tons of animals that you can view from the trail, although this takes much more practice, as many are experts at hiding.

Since 2020, there is also another reason why this trail is special to me- it is home to a large burn scar from the 2020 fire season. From this, you should be able to tell that “special” has an unorthodox connotation here. This isn’t something that makes me happy; in fact, the last time I walked through the scar, I cried. There are hundreds of saguaro that will likely die from the fire, invasive plants are already coming in, and its just a devastating landscape. But, I think it serves as an important look into what we risk by not addressing wildfire concerns here in Arizona and elsewhere.

OVER 80% OF WILDFIRES ARE CAUSED BY PEOPLE!

Which means we can prevent many of them, but we need for people to care.

Description

First Half

go john trail

Sonoran desert from Go John Trail (c) ABR 2018

The Go John Trail starts at the parking lot at the very end of the road in the recreation area. It is a loop hike that you can start heading north or east. The first section of the trail (if you head north on the Maricopa Trail) rises up over a saddle in the mountains. It’s not a particularly steep incline, but it was sustained enough to get my heart rate up. This is the hardest part of the trail, in my opinion, and after you make the top of this rise, Go John will take you down into a valley where you will first enter the burn scar.

The burn scar (c) ABR 2021

Before you descend onto the main length of the trail, however, I would suggest pausing to enjoy the view. The saddle is a great place to snap some pictures of the valleys to either side, one with the heart of Phoenix and one still wild (for now). The rest of the trail is fairly low elevation, so there aren’t tons of other spots for pictures until  the end. That being said, the mountains in Spur Cross will  be at eye line for most of your trek, so the horizon-to-horizon beauty is there.

It’s also the perfect place to compare the healthy desert with the burnt desert. The difference is striking.

Second Half

go john trail

Sonoran desert from Go John Trail (c) ABR 2018

Once you hike down into the washes, you will have some wonderful opportunities to see Sonoran desert biodiversity, with a multitude of plants growing in this relatively lush part of the Phoenix valley. But the trail will continue in and out of the burn scar for miles after the saddle. Birds abound despite the damage, however, and if you know where to look (and how to be both safe and respectful of the animals) there is also some good herping here.

The way back towards the trailhead goes require you to gain some elevation again, but it is much more gradual than the first half of the trail. And once you round the mountains to the east, you will finally exit the burn area and start exploring the thriving desert again. The difference should be immensely apparent.

Beautiful Sonoran Desert (c) ABR 2021

Despite what some uninformed people might proclaim, the desert is not empty. My home is full of life, it just so happens to look less lush than what most people are used to. In fact, Arizona is the third most biodiverse state in the United States.

Safety First

The Go John Trail is 6 miles long, and believe it or not, people have died here before. Never take hiking lightly; be safe! You are your own responsibility and this guide is not a guarantee of your safety.

Do not hike when it is hot (be wary of 85 degrees and higher).

Bring 2-3 liters of water on your hike, as well as salty and sugary snacks.

Wear good hiking boots that will protect your feet and help prevent you from slipping on sandy rocks.

For more safety tips, please reference our other hiking guides.

Does Fire Belong in the Sonoran Desert?

Invasive Stinknet (c) ABR 2021

Not in the way that we are seeing them now. Fires in the Sonoran Desert have not been as large, as hot, and as common as they are now. This change towards more fires that burn larger areas and are more destructive while burning is primarily due to various things that we are doing to the landscape. (1) We are lighting more fires. (2) Climate change is causing drought and higher temperatures which support fires. (3) Human-introduced, exotic grasses and competitive, fast-growing annuals are creating heavy fuel loads where there didn’t used to be any.

These more intense, more common wildfires are changing our landscape and the charismatic saguaro serves as a good example of why. These giant, loveable cacti are not adapted to fire and they are slow growing. So, when wildfires cross the landscape, they may initially survive but with more than 30% burns, even the oldest plants will die within 5 years. Young saguaro are even more vulnerable. Then, it is invasive grasses that emerge from the newly burnt soils. They compete for resources with the tiny, saguaro seedlings and if there are young saguaro that manage to grow after the fire, they are at risk for the next fire, which the invasive grasses will provide fuel loads for.

It IS Up to You To Prevent Wildfires

(c) ABR 2021

As Smokey Bear always says- it is up to us to prevent wildfires and that is true! There are several key things that you can do.

(1) Target shoot responsibly.

Many of our fires are started by target shooters, but this can be prevented. Pick places to shoot where there isn’t a heavy load of dry grasses and plants that can catch on fire easily from a spark. Choose areas with berms. Don’t shoot at metal targets which will spark, and don’t shoot at explosives of any kind.

(2) Check your tow chains.

If towing while on the road, insure that all of your safety chains are either outfiitted with anti-spark covers or adjusted so that they can’t drag on the group.

(c) ABR 2021

(3) Watch where you park.

Do not park your vehicle over dried grasses. Sparks from vehicles can and do cause fires.

(4) Do not throw cigarettes or leave camp fires unattended.

Tossing cigarettes on the ground and leaving campfires unattended and insufficiently doused can put entire landscapes at risk as well as the people in them. Put out your fires with water and stirred until they are completely out (no steam, no heat), and stamp out your cigarettes and pack them out with you.

go john trail

The Lower Salt River: Phoenix’s Riparian Wonderland

Over the years I have kayaked and tubed down the lower Salt River several times, and over the years I have explored this section of the river from the dam under Saguaro Lake to the dam just above the urban section of the river. I have never been disappointed in any of my trips to this area. It is a great place to experience a somewhat unmodified Arizona riparian area. The Lower Salt is also home to a wide variety of bird species including the bald eagle. For those that enjoy other types of wildlife, I have seen feral horses along the river almost every time that I have been on it.

(c) Aireona Bonnie Raschke

There is a lot of fishing and picnicking done along the river throughout the year, but most of what I have done there has actually been on the water. In the case of tubing and kayaking, these activities are seasonal, as the flow of the river is made artificially low during the winter by the dams.

Tubing is the most popular on-the-water activity; people visiting Phoenix will most likely notice the billboards throughout the city about Salt River Tubing. This is a great way to relax, and see the river. In particular, kids love it and for the most part, this section of the river is very gentle. Weekends in the summer tend to be very busy with tubers, however, as many people in the valley love to escape the sweltering summer heat. For most adults, this means a float down the river with a tube full of beer. This is an enjoyable way to float the river, but irresponsible drinkers litter the river to the point that some sections are literally covered with beer cans, and as always, drinking on the water comes with its own dangers.

(c) Aireona Bonnie Raschke

My personal favorite way to experience the Lower Salt is by kayaking, and I have gone down in a sea kayak, as well as in a whitewater kayak. It offers a low key location to learn how to paddle, as there are some rapids, but all of them are safe enough to tube down, and thus there is little risk to people new to a kayak. For those who want to practice their skills, the Lower Salt does have a few small play spots, and a few sections deep enough (depending on the season) for flip turn practice. The real challenge of this section of the river is the fairly high amount of strainers- which, as any kayaker knows, are to be avoided.

(c) Aireona Bonnie Raschke

The Lower Salt is definitely a great place to check out- for residents and people just passing through. Kayaks can be rented through Saguaro Lake Ranch, a tubing trip can be set up through Salt River Tubing, and there are rafting and kayaking tours offered by such companies as Arizona Outback Adventures. Do note that if you plan on coming to picnic or play in your own boat, you will need to purchase a Tonto pass before you come to the park, as they no longer sell these within the park as far as I know.

Links:
Saguaro Lake Ranch
Salt River Tubing
Arizona Outback Adventures

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