Ten Sleep Preserve, located in central Wyoming, was my first introduction to Wyoming. It’s a wonderful place to hike, camp, and experience some of the state’s lesser known natural wonders. The preserve is managed by the Nature Conservancy. Thus, it is part of a system of preserves across the United States and beyond that are meant to protect unique and important ecosystems. It’s possible to visit Tensleep Preserve and support the Nature Conservancy’s work all over the world.

This guide will introduce you to the preserve, lay out how you can check it out yourself, and share some pictures of this beautiful place.

About Ten Sleep Preserve

(c) ABR 2022

Tensleep Preserve is a Nature Conservancy preserve that is located at the base of the Bighorn Mountains. And it is nestled near the small town of Ten Sleep. It is home to beautiful forests and canyons. And it has exceptional views of the arid lands surrounding the western side of the Bighorn. Visiting Tensleep Preserve presents a quite opportunity to hike and enjoy nature in a protected landscape.

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Hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument is the best way to experience this exceptional natural landmark. There are short hikes, paved hikes, and longer treks, so there is a little something for everyone in terms of trails. Exploring on foot will allow you to see the mountain from nearly every angle, to enjoy views of the surrounding valleys, and take in the powerful energy of this sacred place. This guide will speak to a few of the trails that you might consider, and give you some tips for planning your trip out here. This particular national monument is pretty remote, and there are not loads of amenities out in this corner of Wyoming.

I will also be speaking to the fact that it’s about time we stopped calling this beautiful place “Devil’s Tower.” I will be using that term only for SEO purposes, but otherwise, I will be referring to the Tower as Bear Lodge. Come with me to explore why it’s time to start using a more friendly and appropriate name for this formation.

Hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument (Bear Lodge)

Need to Know Info

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In order to go hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument, it goes without saying that you will need to get to the park and park your vehicle first.

Most likely, you will come from the east or west via the Interstate 90, which runs horizontally across South Dakota and parts of Wyoming to Buffalo, where it then heads north into Montana. From the I-90, you will take the 14 north; there is an east and west entrance to the 14 and both head north. From the 14, you will then take the 24 north again until you come to the large stop lights and signage for the park.

It is $25 for a vehicle to get a 1-7 day visitor pass to the park (as of 2023) and only credit cards can be used to pay now; or you can pre-play or use your Interagency Annual Pass. I would personally suggest planning for a 1-2 day trip unless you are a climber and might be climbing and hiking.

There are bathroom and visitor center facilities on-site, but no restaurants.

The Tower Trail

The Tower Trail is a 1.3 mile hike that travels around the base of Bear Lodge. This is the most popular trail in the park, and provides the best views of the mountain. It comes complete with informational signage, and there are several spots along the way that I would suggest you stop to admire Bear Lodge and share a spiritual moment with the land around you.

(c) ABR 2022

In terms of hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument, this is the must-do trail. Yes, it is crowded and parking can be difficult at the visitor’s center, but to experience the namesake of this place fully, this is the trail you want. Generally speaking, there is a little bit of an incline, but I’d consider this trail easy. It isn’t too long or steep. And it is a loop trail, so you will end up finishing right where you began. It’s a great trail to bring kids on as well!

Just please stay on the trail. Remember that Bear Lodge is a sacred place, and generally we can protect the natural environment by staying the trail to keep the impacts of travelers confined to trail areas.

Red Beds Trail

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Red Beds Trail is the longer and less crowded cousin to the Tower Trail. It is essentially a larger loop around Bear Lodge, and it is about 2.8 miles to do the whole thing. In terms of hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument, this is also one of the harder trails, because it does have some elevation gain. But aside from this being a quieter trek, I also loved the variety of Red Beds Trail. It really showcases the all-encompassing beauty of Bear Lodge and the surrounding lands.

I took this route clockwise from the visitor center parking lot. When traveling this direction, you will follow the trail through the forest for a time. But don’t expect to have forest coverage for the whole hike. You will be hiking downwards and as you get to lower elevations, you will find yourself in a more arid setting. This is a mix of grasslands and red sands. It can also be a bit hot here in the summer, with little to no shade.

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Add to this the fact that you will start hiking back up while in this bright and exposed area. Specifically, you can expect to hike up from the junction with the South Side Trail, where you are also closest to the road. Luckily, you will find your way back up into the forest along this route, but it can still be a difficult time. In particular, you will just want to have sufficient water with you and avoid really hot parts of the year/day.

For any hikers, I would highly suggest doing both this trail and the central loop. You get great views of Bear Lodge and the surrounding landscape by doing both.

Tips for the Trail

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Although this is a relatively small park, compared to some other national park units, you will still want to keep safety in mind. I had a real heck of a time on Red Beds Trail because I didn’t have enough water with me when I did it. So, follow our typical tips and always remember, whether you are hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument or anywhere else, you need to take care of your safety first. This guide does not guarantee your safety.

In addition to our typical safety tips, check in with the rangers at the visitor center to see if there is anything you need to know before you head out.

Unfortunately, crowding is also an issue all the way out here. For good reason, Bear Lodge is a very popular place for people to visit, but this can impact your experience there. In particular, it can be hard to park at the visitor center. If you can’t park at the visitor center, you can park at the admin building, and use the South Side trail to hike up to Bear Lodge.

Tips for Planning Your Trip to Bear Lodge

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If you want to go hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument, you will have to stay somewhere nearby, because it is quite removed (or camp). The interesting thing is that there really aren’t any large towns very close to the park. When I stayed, I got a hotel room in Hulett, which is a very small town north of the park. Luckily, this place had more amenities that some of the towns I have been to in Nevada (towns so small they don’t have gas stations or food). Nonetheless, I almost ran into some trouble.

Because I was traveling around the same time as the Sturgis motorcycle event, things were a little odd. Basically every restaurant in town was booked or closed. And the restaurants closer to Bear Lodge was closed when I visited in the late afternoon. So, I almost had to go without dinner, except that someone at a restaurant in town took pity on me and sold me some leftovers from earlier in the day.

Point being, plan out your food situation when you are in the area. Check in with the restaurants to make sure that they will be open when you need them to be. You really don’t want to go hungry after a day of hiking and driving.

Time to Restore the Name of Devil’s Tower to Bear Lodge

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The exceptional and unique mountain that is Bear Lodge has been an important fixture for all people living in and crossing the plains for thousands of years, since people arrived in this landscape. Indigenous people had many names for this place, but these days, it is agreed that many of the names are similar to Bear Lodge. This relates to stories about the origins of the mountain, which usually included bears carving the pillars into the lodge.

Unfortunately, the name “Devil’s Tower” is associated with the genocide of indigenous people of the plains. Around the time that the name was changed, the bison that native people relied on for their livelihoods were hunted to near extinction in an effort to support the United States’ settlement of these areas. There are some records that suggest that Euro-Americans mapping this area mistranslated indigenous names for the Lodge, hearing “bad god” instead of “bear.” However, others say that the name change was purposeful. Either way, the name Devil’s Tower is not reflective of original name or indigenous regard for Bear Lodge. And it is now associated with a very dark period of history.

For one Indigenous perspective on this: https://ictnews.org/archive/devils-tower-name-offensive-disrespectful-repugnant-tribes

To learn more about this history from the National Park Service – check out their page on the subject.

So, for me personally, I am hoping that we will see the more original version of the English name restored to this place someday soon. Although there are many who would disagree with me.

My Stance on Changing the Name

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My opinion isn’t the super important, but I will just share my stance after the experience that I had at Bear Lodge. I feel like this special place deserves my support.

So, first off, from an uninformed standpoint, I think Bear Lodge is a better name than Devil’s Tower. There is something very powerful about this place, and it isn’t a simple, nice spiritual experience. But that’s the thing about bears, they are beautiful, (very cute), but also an animal deserving of respect and some fear. Bear Lodge sounds both inviting and deserving of some careful trepidation.

When I experienced hiking at Devil’s Tower National Monument, this was exactly the experience that I had. The trails weren’t particularly hard on paper, but it was still a heavy and reverent experience. Many cultures believe that struggle and pain lead to spiritual enlightenment, and that was more of my experience on these trails than the distance and elevation gain might suggest. In fact, by the time I got back to the trailhead, I was about ready to collapse. I was so grateful to be back at my car. Which… I should have been more prepared for the trails, but it was also something speaking to me. This isn’t a big park, but it is powerful.

Bear Lodge is a return to the ancient spirit of this place. It feels like a truer identity. And importantly, I think the indigenous movement to restore Bear Lodge’s name deserves the support of visitors who pilgrimage to this unique place.

Planning a Trip to Wyoming?

If you are planning a trip to Wyoming’s National Park units, give our Guide to Wyoming a peek. I have guides to some easy hikes at Grand Teton National Park, as well as my first impressions of Yellowstone, among other posts on nature and culture in the state.

Want to save this guide for later? Pin it!

Yellowstone National Park is a special place for many reasons. It has enchanted the human imagination for tens of thousands of years. And it inspired an entire field of science and environmental policy. It’s the first national park in the world, and its appeal has stood the test of time. My first trip to Yellowstone National Park was in 2022. While I would usually try to put together a guide related to my experience there, this time I am going to be giving you all more of a thought journal and trip log. There is just too much to see and do in Yellowstone. After one trip, I really don’t feel like I have much to offer. But that being said, maybe this exploration of a few days in this magical place will convince any hold-outs among you to give it a chance and plan a visit.

World’s First National Park

Avalanche Peak Trail (c) ABR 2022

Besides my new friends and collaborators that lived in Wyoming and Montana, the only things that I knew about Yellowstone before I visited was: (1) that it is an exceptionally beautiful place, and (2) it was the world’s first national park.

I think the first point is probably something that most of us know, or are at least aware of. Yellowstone isn’t a premier (and crowded) destination for no reason. But perhaps some among you will be surprised to know that the park was the first national park in the world.

But first, let’s back up. What exactly is a national park? The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN; it’s a big-wig in conservation, believe me) defines a national park as “a protected area managed mainly for ecosystem protection and recreation.” This essentially means that the goal of the government agencies running these parks is to maintain the quality of the environment but with access for recreation of various sorts. In the US, this recreation is limited in National Parks. This typically includes hiking, camping, horseback riding, and biking (although this varies from park to park).

Inspiring Conservation

Bison (c) ABR 2022

The creation of Yellowstone National Park in 1872 sparked an entirely new way of looking at the land, and trying to conserve biodiversity even as industrial development required more and more natural resources. Now there are more than 100 countries with a national park system, and the US has 63 National Parks. This concept has not only become a staple of conservation, but an essential part of the outdoor recreation industry, and the lives of many many people, including myself.

All other things aside, this makes Yellowstone hallowed ground for a conservation professional like myself. So planning my first trip to Yellowstone felt momentous; I was going to get to see this special place that captured so many people’s hearts and minds.

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Whether you are planning on staying in Yellowstone National Park or using one of the nearby communities as your base camp, it can be a hard decision to pick a Yellowstone gateway community to concentrate on. (Alternatively, you may want to visit them all!). With this in mind, I’m writing this guide to help you explore two majorly cool options – Jackson Hole and Cody, WY. Both will give you very different experiences in themselves, and they give you different access points to Yellowstone. There are other gateway communities around the park (Yellowstone is massive), but when I went, these did not provide easy access to the park due to a 500-year flood that happened in 2022. So, let’s look at Cody and Jackson Hole to see if either of them is for you as you think about where to stay near Yellowstone.

Eastern Yellowstone Gateway Community: Cody

Environment

Cody has a really unique vibe, and not just because it is an old cowboy town that has never forgotten its roots. It’s located at a lower elevation from most of Yellowstone National Park (https://www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm) and thus, its environment feels decidedly distinct from the park. When you are in Yellowstone, you will be surrounded by forests and fields, unless you are marveling at geothermal formations that suppress the greenery with their heat, fumes, and toxic materials. But when you drive down to Cody, those trees thin out and are replaced by scrappy shrubs and resilient bushes, the likes of which are shared across the arid Western United States. The soil here too takes on a hue that is different from what you will see in much of Yellowstone. It is more red, tinged by iron.

In this way, if you are looking for a change in scenery, Cody is the place to go.

(c) Wikimedia Commons

Attractions and Things To Do

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

As the Yellowstone gateway community, Cody has more than just the world’s first national park to call its own. It is also home to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, which is actually five museums in one! I was a little skeptical when I first read about this place, because I kind of wondered – how can a small town like this be home to such a spectacular, world-class museum?

(c) ABR 2022

Well, I don’t know about that how question, but I can definitely answer the yes/no question there. YES, Cody is home to one of the coolest, biggest museums on the American West that is out there. You can delve into natural history, indigenous culture, and the culture of the cowpokes that have called this place home in more recent history. If you are a museum buff, you could easily spend the entire day here. One ticket gets you into all three museums, and there is SO much to take in in each one.

The Buffalo Bill Center is also my kind of learning institution. They teach via immersive displays and through various means of engagement. The people who put this place together and maintain it on the day to day, really bring the museum A-game. You will have all of your senses engaged here, in each of the three museums. You will be able to learn via your imagination and escape, through touch, sound, and visual delights, and through the in-depth information that you can engage with along the way.

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If you did no other museum in all of Wyoming, I would suggest that you do this one. And if you aren’t just coming to Yellowstone to hike and take photos, I would suggest that you at least stop in Cody to take in this amazing place.

Other Notes

In addition to the museum, Cody is home to a variety of hiking options outside of the park as well. So, you can explore the unique environment on foot if you’d like. There are also opportunities to explore via mountain bikes and ATVs out here.

For the additional attractions, I’d give Cody a close look when considering where to stay near Yellowstone.

Other Things to Consider About Cody

(c) Wikimedia Commons

Cody has a different feel than Jackson Hole. It is still a substantial community, complete with multiple gas stations, grocery stores, restaurants and shops (and a myriad of stop lights). But it isn’t quite as geared towards tourism in the same way that Jackson Hole is. This is still a community where local people can afford to live and thrive. (So, please respect that).

If you are looking for a genuine, small-town Wyoming feel when looking for your Yellowstone gateway community, Cody will have that for you. This is a living, breathing town with all the good and bad. You will find plenty of tourism offerings but not as much of the curation as in Jackson Hole. The suppliers in Cody will also be a bit different, but I think you can find just about anything you need in this town.

Access to Yellowstone

Cody is about 1 hour from the border of Yellowstone National Park. Please check the Yellowstone website to see if there are any road closures.

It will be a drive up into the mountains from Cody to Yellowstone, and a somewhat steep and winding drive out and back to town.

You will have easiest access to parts of the park nearby the eastern exit.

Travel times and the trails you are looking to access should all factor into your consideration of where to stay near Yellowstone.

Southern Yellowstone Gateway Community: Jackson Hole

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For my Arizonans out there, Jackson Hole reminds me so much of Sedona, but on a larger scale. It is magical, it is somewhere you want to be. It draws you in in this indescribable way. But at the same time, it is a testament to tourism gone wrong in so many ways. It is has become unaffordable to local people (in 2022 there was only one house in all of town that was selling for under 1 million dollars).

It gets intensely crowded. And the local folks are often outnumbered by visitors. All the same, I can’t say that Jackson Hole isn’t somewhere that I hope to go back to. Taking the bad with the good, it was still somewhere that I understand why so many people flock there and pay big money to stay. So, when thinking about where to stay near Yellowstone, Jackson Hole might still be a good option for you, but it comes with caveats that I will outline for you below.

Environment

(c) ABR 2022

Everything surrounding Jackson Hole is mountainous beauty. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful places in the world. When I first got there, it reminded me of New Zealand (one of my all time favorite places). And even the drive up to Jackson Hole from the south was awe-inspiring. Imagine the wide-open spaces of the plains, merged with the wild expanse of wooded, powerful mountains. It’s a place that feels deeply sacred and at the heart of what we have some to call “wilderness.” The town is nested in all of this, and while it isn’t the kind of place where you will be roughing it by any means, it feels like adventure.

There is hiking and other outdoor activities to be done in any direction leading out from Jackson Hole – from national parks to national forests and more. In the winter, there are also ample opportunities to get out on the snow as a skier or snowboarder. If you can afford to stay here, there is a little something for everyone in this Yellowstone gateway community.

Attractions and Things To Do

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Besides Yellowstone, the most important (in my humble opinion) attraction near Jackson Hole is Teton National Park. I have a great post about some beginners hikes in this park. Do let the Tetons sway you when you are thinking about where to stay near Yellowstone. They are some of the most exceptional and breathtaking mountains in the entire world. There is tons of hiking, and sightseeing to be done in this park.

The Tetons are also closely linked to Yellowstone, so I think visiting this park is an awesome complement to Yellowstone itself. There are grizzlies, elk, and other large animals that call this place home, and while it lacks the immense geothermal elements of Yellowstone, its craggy peaks make it totally unique.

You could easily spend 1-2 days here alone, or several days if you are looking for backcountry hikes and camping opportunities. Backpacking permits are a bit hard to come by, however, so do you research when planning your trip.

Downtown Jackson Hole is also full of little tourist shops and restaurants. It is a great place to spend a lazy afternoon or morning exploring and looking for the perfect souvenir. I’ve also had some VERY good breakfast in town – from an amazing (but popular) French bistro, to a very fun and tasty bagel house. For those members of the family that aren’t as fond of hiking and the outdoors, this is the place for them.

Other Things to Consider About Jackson Hole

Crowding and Conditions

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Jackson Hole might sound like the perfect Yellowstone gateway community so far, and there is a lot to love about it. However, it isn’t all good in this mountain town. Like Sedona, Jackson Hole is a ground zero for “overtourism” in the United States. While you might find some other technical definitions of this word elsewhere, I consider that to mean that tourism has overtaken the local community in importance, leading to local people needing to leave the town in order to survive.

Properties here are far outside of the range that regular people can afford, and vacation homes have become more and more of the norm. Take a peek at Airbnb and you will see luxury homes and condos on offer – none of these affordable to local people as homes or to many travelers as lodging.

The streets are crowded, both with cars and pedestrians, and parking in the surrounding national parks can feel more like a nightmare than your dream vacation.

Pricing

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The prices for hotels in Jackson Hole can also be outrageous. When I stayed here, I got a modest but clean motel-type room that went for $400 a night. Yes, you read that night. And this was in the shoulder season. Now, I did find my lodging a little late and I had limitations on when I could go because this was linked to a work trip, but… I have never stayed in such humble accommodations for that much, ever. And I would never consider $400 a night as an option in all but the most special of cases. My typical range for hotel prices is preferably from $100-$150 a night in the US to balance cost with quality.

I believe if you plan far ahead, you can find better prices than this, but please beware if you are thinking about Jackson Hole as your base camp.

Access To Yellowstone

Jackson Hole is 1.5 hours from the nearest Yellowstone entrance, and it is about 2.5 hours from Old Faithful.

In terms of suppliers, you will have a Target and REI on hand, along with other grocery stores and shops. So, you should have no problem if you forget gear for your trip or need to pick up anything in town.

Planning A Wyoming Trip? 

Where did you pick when considering where to stay near Yellowstone?

Are you looking for other things to do and explore in Wyoming? If so, consider some of the small towns that you will find on your drive between Yellowstone and Denver – Laramie and Saratoga. Escape some of the crowds and get your dose of Wyoming culture and the state’s sweeping landscapes. I will also be building out Nightborn’s Guide to Wyoming in the coming weeks and years, so be sure to give that a look for more travel ideas and information on this wild, western state.

If you’d like to save this post for later, consider pinning it.

Wyoming is home to many small towns, and while I can’t say that I have been to even the majority of them, the few I have had the opportunity to visit so far all have their own character and charm. In southern Wyoming, there are two small towns that are close to my heart that I’d like to encourage you to consider visiting and/or learning more about – Laramie and Saratoga.

Laramie is home to the University of Wyoming and next door to some exceptional hiking. And Saratoga is a very small town that is home to a beautiful hot springs. Taken together, these southern Wyoming towns have a little something for everyone – trails, history, and relaxation. So, think about these small towns to visit in southern Wyoming when planning your next trip!

Laramie and the University of Wyoming

I knew of Laramie before my first forays into Wyoming for one thing – the boy scouts. Of course, that’s a little ironic, because as a woman, I couldn’t be part of the boy scouts when I was little, so I never got to go. But the stories of the adventures to be had there were legendary among my family and my friends who were boy scouts.

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Now, I live a short drive away from the town of Laramie, and I am a mini University of Wyoming student. So, I’ve grown a certain appreciation for the town, and do see it as a gateway to adventures in the wider Wyoming landscape.

As for the town itself, it is very small. And actually, after all the stories I had heard about Wyoming and Laramie itself, I was surprised to find that it is nested in a relatively flat area. There is no easily accessible hiking right in town. But with the University at its heart and a vibrant old town, Laramie is still a very cool place to check out when considering small towns to visit in southern Wyoming.

Downtown Laramie

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The downtown area of Laramie is not large by any means. You could easily shop it thoroughly in a few short hours. But that being said, it is full of nice shops (some of our favorites have Laramie-made adventure gear and University of Wyoming apparel), restaurants and coffee shops. You could easily make a leisurely partial day there by relaxing in a few food related places, shopping, and then eating lunch.

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