Category: International Travel (Page 1 of 7)

Three Other Things to Do in the Netherlands for Less Crowds

things to do in the netherlands

I was not about the crowding in Amsterdam (c) ABR 2017

Among US citizens, the Netherlands is on many people’s bucketlists for Amsterdam. But as anyone who lives there, has traveled there, or done a bit of research knows, there are TONS of things to do in the Netherlands. For me personally, I get really exhausted by crowds and I hate fighting other people for spots in lines, or for parking spaces. So, I am always on the lookout for less crowded options. I don’t always find them, depending on how long I am somewhere and how intrigued I am by popular destinations, but in the Netherlands, I had the opportunity to visit a few calmer locations that I would like to suggest. Besides escaping some crowds, spreading the tourism love can help address over-visitation when we couple it with other tools and strategies. So, if you are looking to add some calmer locations to your itinerary or just explore some new parts of the Netherlands, give this little list a gander. You might also consider checking out my posts on National Parks in the Netherlands as well. You will be surprised how varied nature is in this under-appreciated landscape.

 

Vaalserberg: The Netherlands Highpoint and Three-Country Point

things to do in the netherlands

(c) ABR 2017

 

Vaalserberg is the highpoint of the Netherlands, and insofar as mountaineering/hiking goes, it is not the kind of high point that will generally get you huffing and puffing. It’s the crown of a generally flat and low-lying country. But that doesn’t mean that it isn’t both a unique and enjoyable destination that’s worth your time. For anyone who loves to explore nature and hike, this is a must-have for any things to do in the Netherlands list.

The character of the highpoint itself is that of a gentle, rounded mountain or what some might consider more of a hill. This area is wooded and feels far more wild than the other parts of the Netherlands that I visited. Happily, there are a variety of trails that zig and zag through the forest, and which are well traveled, so it is not hard to navigate them.

things to do in the netherlands

(c) ABR 2017

Besides all that, and most interestingly, if you look at a map, you will see that Vaalserberg sits in the narrow little panhandle of the Netherlands. And it is located where three different countries meet! This is where Belgium, Germany, and the Netherlands are all conjoined, and there is even a little statue that you can visit at the point.

There is a road up to the top, where you can park, hike around a little bit, and get some food. There is also a lookout tower that you can pay to check out as well (although I didn’t bother). There is also a maze of some sort? I wasn’t able to go, but it looked intriguing. So, if you are in the area and enjoy those sorts of things, definitely consider it.

things to do in the netherlands

(c) ABR 2017

How to Get There

Vaalserberg is a bit out of the way, at least in terms of Amsterdam, so I think the easiest way to get out there is going to be with a vehicle. From Amsterdam, you can drive to the town of Vaals, and then follow signs (or Google) to Les Trois Bornes. You will want to park near the Labyrint if you want to get as close to the top as possible in your vehicle, but if you are open to hiking and walking a bit, there are more options.

Noordwijk Beach: Mussels, Frites, and the Seaside

things to do in the netherlands

(c) ABR 2017

In retrospect, it’s a little silly, but I never associated the Netherlands with the beach. (Very silly when I realize that not only do they have coastline but they have islands as well). Really, at least one beach should be on every things to do in the Netherlands list.

Just a short distance from Amsterdam is the seaside town of Noordwijk, where my travel buddy and myself had a perfect evening stroll and delectable dinner of mussels with the sea breeze in our hair. (It’s actually one of my fondest memories of the Netherlands, and that entire trip is extremely fond to me).

When we ventured out here after a long day, we walked a little among the shops. Not really looking to buy anything, but enjoying the vibe and people watching. And it wasn’t long until the ocean called us down into the sand. It felt like a gentle beach. Soft, warm sand and people playing in the water. There were even picturesque grasses growing up on the higher part of the shore.

things to do in the netherlands

(c) ABR 2017

After splashing in the sea for a bit and getting sand between our toes, we retreated back up the shore towards the shops and restaurants that line the beachfront. We were lucky enough to get a spot at a restaurant serving mussels and frites- which felt like the perfect Dutch, seaside meal.

While I wouldn’t call the beach quiet by any means, it was nonetheless a retreat from the extremely busy downtown Amsterdam, where we had spent our morning.

How to Get There/Where to Park

If you are traveling by public transit, the closest train station is in Leiden. You can then take the bus north to the beach. And if you are driving, you can have Google take you to the parking lot at: Kon. Astrid Boulevard 51, 2202 BE Noordwijk, Netherlands.

Roosegaarde Cycle Path: Van Gogh Bike Path

things to do in the netherlands

(c) ABR 2017

Just like the beach, the Netherlands’ iconic artists should be a part of any things to do in the Netherlands list. In particular, whether you are interested in art or not, you will likely run into one or two things related to Van Gogh. We saw a few of his paintings on display in De Hoge Veluwe, and we also went WAAAAY out of our way in search of the Van Gogh bike path.

That’s because we had heard that this bike bath actually glows at night with a re-creation of what might be one of the most famous European paintings- Starry Night. As you may know if you follow this blog, I LOVE immersive art installations and while some might argue that this bike path doesn’t fit, I think it does. Haha. In any case, it sounded immensely interesting and we went on a bit of a quest to find it, as it really isn’t advertised much in the area.

things to do in the netherlands

Landscape surrounding the trail (c) ABR 2017

Unfortunately, when we arrived it was sunset, and not quite dark enough to enjoy the full effect. It’s also a bit smaller of an area than I might have thought. That being said, it was nice to get out into the country and go for a nice little walk among the fields. I’d suggest visiting Roosegaarde and the surrounding area for dinner and then taking a short walk or bike ride after dark.

How to Get There/Where to Park

If you are taking public transportation, take the train to Eindhoven and then take the bus out to Nuenen-Eindhoven a270. Likewise, if you are driving, you will need to get to the Nuenen-Eindhoven a270 parking lot. You can find that lot using: Wolvendijk 80, 5641 AS Eindhoven, Netherlands. When driving through Eindhoven, be extra careful and be doubly sure to go the speed limit. I got a $50 (end US$ price once I paid) for going 3km over the speed limit in the city.

Planning Your Trip to the Netherlands

While these three locations alone would certainly make for a unique experience of Holland, this is by no means an exhaustive list of things to do in the Netherlands. If you are a hiker, check out my guide to Nature in the Netherlands. I’ve also done a short piece on Giethoorn or the “Venice of the Netherlands); if you are crowd-averse like I am, it will be good information to help you figure out if you’d like to visit or not. We also have a guest post from several bloggers covering their favorite spots in the Netherlands, which I wasn’t able to visit- but you might like to! Finally, to explore all of this and more, check out our short guide to the Netherlands.

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Visiting Giethoorn, Netherlands: What Is It Really Like?

Visiting Giethoorn has recently been added to everyone’s Netherlands bucketlist thanks to other bloggers and Instagram. Likewise, I was attracted to this beautiful town by all the pictures that made it look like a fairytale come true. As many of us are aware, however, tourism fame changes a place, so if you have Giethoorn on your bucketlist, you’ll want to give this article a read to avoid being disappointed in the experience that you might have here.

Summary: Visiting Giethoorn is a wonderful experience, however, there can be a lot of crowding both on land and in the canals. Go during the down season, respect local people, and plan around tourism group schedules to have the best experience and support the town.

What I Loved About Visiting Giethoorn 

visiting giethoorn

(c) ABR 2017

The pictures of Giethoorn don’t lie… they just leave a few things out. The town is absolutely magical, and I honestly can’t think of any place like it that I’ve been elsewhere. The architecture of the homes, restaurants, shops, and hotels in Giethoorn looks like it is straight out of a Disney fairytale. Many buildings come complete with thatched roofs and everything.

The canals are likewise magical. From a boat, you can glide along the calm waters, past all the cute buildings. You can swoop under the bridges that serve as walkways for pedestrians. Here and there, when the water isn’t crowded with boats, ducks coast along with you. They fit in perfectly with the atmosphere of the town.

visiting giethoorn

(c) ABR 2017

Besides the overall vibe you get from visiting Giethoorn, there is plenty to do in the town. I would say that you can find some of the best souvenirs here (more authentic than anything I found in Amsterdam, at least). We also enjoyed some very good food (but a bit expensive). And you can’t beat the atmosphere if you stay on past the tours. Eating next to the canals when they are calm and the town quiets down is lovely beyond words.

Finally, Giethoorn is the perfect gateway for De Weerribben-Wieden National Park, which can be best explored by boat.

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Daydreaming: A New Zealand Photo Essay

This year really has been the pits, huh?

Join me as I revisit my past travels through photos and whisk yourself away to blue skies, sandy beaches, colorful blooms – anywhere but your own couch.

This one I call Daydreaming: New Zealand.

i.queenstown.

ii.eden garden.

iii.
domain wintergarden.

iv.hobbiton.

v.rotorua natural hot springs.

vi.

queenstown shore.

vii.
lake wakatipu.

vii.
tauranga off mt. mauao.

ix.mt. maunganui beach

x.
beach i can’t remember the name of, auckland.

xi.
see above. (whoops.)

xii.

whakarewarewa forest.

fin.

New Zealand is so intensely pretty, sometimes I feel like it WAS a dream.

All the best,
Katie

montserrat itinerary

A Montserrat Itinerary – My Favorite Things to Do In Montserrat

If you haven’t read the first part of My Favorite Things to Do in Montserrat, you may wish to check that out, because this second part will not discuss the Soufrière Hills volcano and Plymouth except for an inclusion in the Montserrat itinerary at the end of this post. This little Caribbean country is now known for this active volcano and the swath of destruction that it has left behind on the larger south section of this tropical paradise. However, before anyone knew that the Soufrière Hills hid a living volcano capable of turning life on the island upside down for more than a decade, Montserrat was a treasure trove of natural wonders. It was and remains home to sweeping mountains, crystal clear springs of water, and wondrous black-sand beaches. It’s the perfect place for any intrepid explorer, especially nature lovers.

[Until the COVID-19 outbreak settles down and international travel is safe again, please consider this an inspirational post. This is not encouragement to travel at this time, especially not to a small country like Montserrat.]

(4) Go for a Hike

montserrat itinerary

Cassava Ghaut trail (c) ABR 2020

A lot of people don’t seem to realize how amazing the Caribbean is for hiking. And hiking in Montserrat is no exception. Hands down, the trails on this island are one of my favorite things to do in Montserrat. That being said, I MUST remind you that hiking is dangerous. Never go out alone unless you are very experienced. In any case, always let a third party know where you are going and when you plan on getting back. Bring good shoes, water, and food with you, and always start early in the day so that you don’t get caught at night. You always hike at your own risk, but if you get in trouble you get put other people at risk as well. So BE CAREFUL!

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My Favorite Things to Do In Montserrat

There are things to do in Montserrat for hikers, beach-goers, and history buffs. The island of Montserrat in the Caribbean is a territory of the UK, and not particularly well known outside of the region. Currently, what makes it particularly unique is that it is home to an active stratovolcano, which has made more than half of the island unliveable and dangerous with its rapidly moving pyroclastic flows. This activity began in 1995 and has continued sporadically to this day (although the last explosion as of 2020 was in 2010).

While this is, in fact, very interesting, Montserrat is also home to beautiful volcanic beaches, great hiking paths, and a very friendly community. Much like the other islands that I have visited throughout the Caribbean, this is a very special place, which should be more than a stop on a cruise ship itinerary. No matter your travel style, the island has something for you, and you should plan on spending at least 2-3 days here in order to get a good taste of the country. It might just steal your heart in that time!

2020 COVID-19 Disclaimer: Please do not consider this post encouragement to travel before it is safe.

Like the rest of the world, Montserrat is protecting it’s people by limiting travel and quarantining people that fly in. It shouldn’t be a surprise that it’s no time to travel overseas at the moment. But I do hope this will serve as inspiration to visit the island when it is safe to do so for yourself and when it is safe for everyone living in Montserrat as well. I visited Montserrat in February before the outbreak stopped the world.

(1) Tour the Island and Plymouth with Montserrat Island Tours

things to do in Montserrat

Sunny teaching us about the history of Plymouth (c) ABR 2020

Plymouth is the former capital of Montserrat, and the only place that visitors can get a sense for the impact that the Soufriere Hills Volcano has had on this little island nation. If you are silly like me, and think that you can just wander your way on over there by yourself in a rental vehicle, think again.

Zone V, where Plymouth and the volcano both live, are the heart of Montserrat’s exclusion zone, and due to the years and years of pyroclastic flows and floods of ash, it is off-limits. That being said, a visit to Plymouth is definitely #1 among the things to do in Montserrat, because it is a totally unique experience. And you can go… with a local guide who has permission from the government and follows very specific safety rules. While there are many good guides on Montserrat, I went with Montserrat Island Tours, and I absolutely loved them.

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things to do in Montserrat

My Thoughts on Montsserrat: Inspiration for a Troubled Time

A place that captured my heart

(c) ABR 2020

There are many places that have captured my heart, including New Zealand, Scotland, Japan, Iceland, the Channel Islands, and the Faroe Islands. I am sure that there will be more places in the future, God willing. However, I’ve never been anywhere that impacted me the way that Montserrat did. I wasn’t expecting it. The first time that I had ever heard of the island was during my PhD studies, when I just stumbled across the name in one of the long lists of countries in the Caribbean. I wasn’t familiar, so as I am want to do, I looked it up. I was immediately intrigued by the fact that most of the island was an “exclusion zone” due to a volcano.

In my mind’s eye, this was a place like Washington state, where Mt. Saint Helens had ravaged the land and caused tragedy, but could now be observed and climbed like a relic of the past (not to say that it is). I imagined travelling through the lush rainforests of Montserrat to view and yes, even climb the volcano. Sadly, I was so naive that even leading up to my trip there, I was looking up how to hike the volcano. I didn’t realize that Montserrat didn’t just suffer from one explosion but nearly two decades worth of destructive, pyroclastic activity that has literally left about 2/3 of the island off-limits.

Touring Plymouth

Ruins in Plymouth (c) ABR 2020

I can at least say that I learned enough leading up to my expedition that I purchased a tour of Plymouth, the former capital of the island. I had read that you couldn’t go alone. My guide, a man by the name of Sunny, grew up in stretches of Montserrat that are abandoned and lost for now. And he, like many other Montserratians, had explored a beautiful world that has ceased to exist as it once did. Plymouth was considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in the Caribbean. The mountains surrounding what’s now an active volcano were living and lush. There were only little hints of what was beneath it all in the form of hot springs, not unlike those that I’ve hiked to see in Dominica.

In 1995, when the mountain came alive again, no one thought that the Montserrat that they knew was about to be lost. Activity on the mountain grew, and scientists became more apprehensive, until they alerted the government to the fact that they could not provide 6 hours notice that the volcano might explode. At this point, people were forced to flee the city, many leaving their belongings behind, perhaps believing that they would be able to return soon permanently… and that life would go back to normal. It was not to be, however. The explosion that came in 1996 was so violent and persistent that by 1997 Plymouth was engulfed and destroyed. Nearly 2/3 of the island’s population left Montserrat permanently. Making the damage both physical and cultural.

Unlike Mt Saint Helens, the volcano didn’t explode once. It’s dome expanded and blasted out the island again and again. Destroying Plymouth, destroying the small villages in the countryside to the south, blasting away the roads and the countrysides that once allowed people to play in and explore, and eventually destroying the island’s airport. The last powerful explosion was in 2010, and the years leading up to that were filled with destructive activity. More than a decade of loss.

Strong people surviving loss

Sunny teaching us about the history of Plymouth (c) ABR 2020

I can’t know what those people went through and still feel to this day, but the stories I was told and reading about the event afterwards can give a one a sense. I feel loss even, for the people who lost their homes and their way of life, and for an island that I will never get to see. I’ve been to Montserrat now, but it’s a new Montserrat- something different from what it was before, unique yes, but a reminder of how brutal nature can be. Creation is violent, because volcanoes create. But what it takes to get there is tragic, painful, and oftentimes beyond human comprehension.

It isn’t just the tragedy of Montserrat that makes this island special, and it shouldn’t be. While I wanted to ask the people that I spoke with there if they ever got tired of talking about the volcano, it’s something that has shaped many things on the island. Despite everything, however, people are still there. Not folks who are trapped, but people that want to be there.

Some are Montserratians, although many community members left the island when the eruptions made life too difficult. With no space for people to live in, no jobs, no school, and no rest, it makes sense. They went to the UK, other Caribbean countries, and elsewhere. Meanwhile, since the volcano has comparably simmered down and settlements have established to the north of the island where it is safe, new folks have come to live there. Many are people from around the Caribbean, with some European and US expats as well.

Montserrat now and then, but still alive

(c) ABR 2020

They are rebuilding and keeping the island alive, and while most of them might not remember the Montserrat of “before,” they have taken the special spirit of that place to heart. Montserrat is a remainder of a Caribbean of yester-years. Safe, helpful, and friendly when you offer a smile or kind word. People wave at eachother as they drive down the road, and honk at friends as they pass. It’s not the only island left like this, but that doesn’t make it any less special to experience it- especially when you come from a big city.

Even though I never knew what Montserrat was like before the volcano, even though I didn’t live through the eruptions, or even get to thoroughly explore it, there is something haunting about this place. In some ways, it is that fascination that all people have for other’s tragedy (dark tourism is a thing for a reason!). It’s also the beauty of a place where the nature we love and the nature we fear exist together, and the kindness of a community that has survived that calls you back.

They say that if you drink from the Runaway Ghaut spring you will come back to the island. I couldn’t drink because of my chronic illness, but nonetheless, I hope the spirit of that promise will live in me. I want to come back, and I hope that when I do, I will get to see the dawning of a new day there. I hope that nature sees fit to let this little island heal.

Inspiration for times of trouble

Hilltop Coffee Shop Museum (c) ABR 2020

It’s been less than a month since I drafted this post… but it feels like a lifetime ago. The day that I plan on publishing this post will mark the beginning of our third week working from home due to coronavirus. With uncertainty being the name of the game everyday, and health/financial ruin weighing heavy on everyone’s minds… I often think back to Montserrat.

This is because I believe that the little nation of Montserrat faced disaster more bravely than I have in the past couple weeks. While the situation there and the situation now are not the same, the people of this island have survived years of uncertainty, destruction, and disruption of their lives. Yet, they found ways to adapt and survive, both on their home island and elsewhere. In this difficult days ahead, I will keep thinking about the strength of the Montserrat people. I will look for kindness in my community and try to provide kindness to those around me, and I will keep picking up the pieces until better times come again.

Thank you to Montserrat for hosting me for a few days before the whole world changed. That experience will live in my heart forever, and strengthen me in this insane reality that we are all living in now.

 

A Little Ode to… Dulwich Village

A little bit of a late blog post, but one I wanted to share anyway about our trip to London in late October last year.

When I booked the trip waaaaaaay earlier in February because the flight was super cheap ($400 round-trip from Phoenix to London – thanks for the heads up, Next Vacay and Hopper!), I had grand plans of maximizing what would really only be five FULL days there. We would go to the city proper and see all the sights, do a hedge maze at one of the palaces, and maybe even squeeze in a day trip to Bath.

But then, the rest of a busy year happened and by the time I got to the end of October, I was feeling pretty exhausted and anxious about our trip across the pond. I wanted to make this trip special for my boyfriend (his first international trip!), but thought of rushing from place to place was starting to fill me with dread. Thankfully, he has a much more lax view on travel and was fine with taking it easy. So off we went, with a very loose itinerary (really just a list of places scribbled onto a sheet of lined paper).

The only real stipulation I did make is that for part of the trip I wanted to stay out a little further into a quieter part of London. I ended up picking a place in Dulwich Village, about 45 minutes south of London by bus.

Dulwich Village Favorites

Dulwich Park

This little park and by little I actually mean 71 acres, was a great place to stroll. It was beautiful, even on a dreary day, and I’m betting in sunshine it would be a wonderful place to have a picnic.

A deep red Japanese maple in the park’s Japanese garden.

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A Long Weekend in Luxembourg with Castles, Cities, and the Perfect Countryside

Luxembourg is one of the smallest countries in Europe, and it is sandwiched between Belgium, Germany, and France. As such, it is the perfect place to go to experience a unique culture that has arisen from a region packed with history. While you could easily spend a week or more here, enjoying the beautiful greenery and villages of the countryside, for high-energy travelers spending a long weekend in Luxembourg is perfect. You’ll have time for small town life, exploring Luxembourg City, and hiking one of the most beautiful trails in Europe. This Luxembourg itinerary will break down some of my favorite places in this lovely little nation that stole my heart when I visited.

Day One: Shopping, Eating, and Exploring in Luxembourg City

Luxembourg City is, unsurprisingly, the place to go to learn more about Luxembourg and experience lots of the wonderful things that the country has to offer. Overall, I’d say that this is one of the Europe’s less crowded cities, but you will still run into a good number of tourists here. If you want to avoid the crowds, Sunday tends to be the most quiet. Unfortunately, this is the case because lots of things are closed. So, if you want more options by the way of shopping and dining, it will be best to avoid Sunday. If not, however, lots of the major attractions are still open on Sunday, so it can be a very peaceful day to visit. Either way, Luxembourg City will be a highlight of your weekend in Luxembourg.

weekend in luxembourg

Looking down on the Old Quarter (c) ABR 2018

The National Museum of Luxembourg was our first stop after walking the town for an hour or two. It is free, and will give you a really nice overview of the country’s history. Since the museum is centrally located, this is a great place to spend the morning and then set off on foot for lunch.

weekend in luxembourg

Beautiful buildings in Luxembourg City (c) ABR 2018

From there, I would definitely suggest visiting the Bock casemates. This fortress has been built right into the cliffs that twist their way through the city. It has a long history of serving as both a military asset and a place of refuge for the people of Luxembourg. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So if my endorsement isn’t enough to convince you to include this in your Luxembourg itinerary, hopefully that seal of approval will.

weekend in luxembourg

The casemates and the city (c) ABR 2018

After winding your way through the subterranean world of the city, spend the afternoon strolling through the narrow streets of the Old Quarter and enjoy the beauty of the city’s river.

Day Two: Enjoying the Countryside: Vianden Castle and Esch-sur-Sûre

weekend in luxembourg

Vianden Castle (c) ABR 2018

Vianden Castle is one of the most spectacular castles that I have ever had the opportunity to visit, and it was probably our favorite part of our weekend in Luxembourg. Vianden has been through many of the country’s struggles and did fall out of repair for a time. However, the people of Luxembourg rallied around this symbol of their nation to rebuild it. Modern day visitors will be delighted to explore a beautifully restored fortress. Perched up on a cliff, you will be blown away by the views of the surrounding town as you wander through the authentic furnishing of the past. There is also a wonderful, immersive museum on the castle grounds. So it’s not a stretch to say that you’d spend at least half a day exploring this landmark.

weekend in luxembourg

Vianden Village (c) ABR 2018

After the castle, be sure to check out Vianden town. It is picturesque and full of lovely little cafes to grab lunch. Next stop on the Luxembourg itinerary is Esch-sur-Sûre which is about a 40 minute drive away.

Esch-sur-Sûre

weekend in luxembourg

(c) ABR 2018

This little town also has its own castle, which is open to visitors. But this is much more of an iconic ruin than Vianden castle, so you can explore it at your leisure. You will need to hike up to the top of the hill to do so though. So be prepared for a bit of a huff. The view of the town from above is well worth the incline. The architecture of Luxembourg is stately and ironically European, but Esch-sur-Sûre is also characterized by the river that winds around the massive, rock outcropping that marks the center of the village.

Day Three: Nature as the Finale: The Mullerthal Trail

 

For me, as a hiker and outdoor adventurer, I love getting a sense of a country from its nature. So, after a few days of urban exploration, it’s a great place to end your trip. Luckily, Luxembourg is home to the absolutely breathtaking Mullerthal Trail. At 112 km long, you can make this trek into just about any kind of hike you’d like. You can take a short stroll through the verdant canyon to marvel at the sculpted rocks of the area. You can also spend the whole day on the trail.  The Mullerthal trail is also perfect for backpackers. For information on this, there is a detailed breakdown of the backpacking stages here.

weekend in luxembourg

Who doesn’t love these? (c) ABR 2018

For those of you looking for shorter hikes, I ended up using Road Trips Around the World’s detailed guide.

And if you enjoyed this itinerary, you might love our other, action-packed guides. And if you want to learn more about Luxembourg, be sure to read My Travel Affairs’ Interesting Facts About Luxembourg.

weekend in luxembourg

The More Serious Side of Travel: Hiroshima Peace Memorial

When you look at Hiroshima today – bustling and beautiful – it’s hard to imagine the complete devastation of the atomic bomb drop just over 70 years ago. And I know that it’s not easy to visit places where you’re faced with the history of great tragedy, but if you’re traveling to Japan, think about stopping by the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum to better understand the effects of the atomic bomb on Hiroshima and its people (and their resilience and strength as they worked to rebuild their city).

Each exhibit about the culmination of World War II, the dropping of the bomb and its aftermath are informative, but it’s also a very emotional experience. Perhaps the most sobering exhibits (at least for me) are the personal items and stories on display of victims of the bombing. I held it together pretty well until a docent told a group of us about a photo of people waiting in line for medical attention not too long after the bomb fell – how the photographer knew he had to document this but he stood for nearly 20 minutes mesmerized by the pain and horror of it all.

Tiny cranes on display, folded by Sadako Sasaki, a young girl exposed to radiation when the bomb fell when she was only a toddler. Years later when she was 12 years old, she was diagnosed with leukemia and passed away soon after.

 

A watch that stopped at 8:15 a.m., the time the bomb hit Hiroshima on August 6, 1945.

After we left the museum, we visited the Children’s Peace Monument – a tribute to Sadako and the thousands of other children who were victims of the bombing.

The monument is surrounded by glass boxes where visitors can leave their own folded cranes in a hopeful promise for better days and in remembrance.

My travel companions and I hung up our own cranes – a small labor of love that we had folded on the train ride over.

Behind the colorful cranes, you can step out onto a walking path and see the Genbaku or Atomic Bomb Dome across the way. It’s called this because it was the only structure still standing so close to the bomb’s hypocenter (where the atomic bomb hit).

I sat down on a bench and marveled at the juxtaposition and the significance of this defiant building sitting in the sun, next to a lazily flowing river. People rode bikes and chatted with each other animatedly as they walked by – life, like the water, ebbed on.

I’m looking forward to coming back to Hiroshima – a city with so much to offer. This time around, I didn’t get to visit Hiroshima Castle, try their version of okonomiyaki or take the short ferry ride to the neighboring small island of Miyajima (amongst many other great sites to see). I can’t wait until my next trip.

I didn’t get to ride their electric railway either, which is a travesty, because I love streetcars.

Be Good to Each Other,
Katie

The Forgotten Caribbean: Visiting Culebra

Culebra is the smaller of the two populated islands off of the eastern coast of Puerto Rico, and it is a world of its own. The island itself is low-lying, meaning that much of its surface is relatively dry when compared to the tropical paradise that is the Island of Enchantment, and even compared to the forests of its partner, Vieques. Even so, Culebra is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean, if not the world, and it has a tragic history that needs to be remembered. But is visiting Culebra worth it? Of course. It’s the perfect place for a weekend getaway or as part of an add-on to a trip to Puerto Rico.

EARLY HISTORY

Despite it small size, Culebra has a history that’s almost a perfect snap shot of all the complexity and struggles faced by the people of the Caribbean. Archeologists have found evidence of both Taino and Arawak peoples living on the island before the arrival of Europeans. By the 18th century, the native Caribbean people had either died in wars with invading Europeans, via slavery, or they had mixed with the new people moving into the Caribbean. Shortly after, Culebra had become a shelter for pirates.

visiting culebra

Coolest postal office ever with Caribbean flare (c) ABR 2018

The Spanish crown put a stop to this, due to the island’s proximity to its Caribbean jewel, and as of 1880 colonization efforts began on the island. In fact, there is still an old graveyard that has survived into modern times from those early days of European colonization (something you should totally include in your Culebra itinerary). Within a short period of time, the single village of Culebra had grown to five villages and the people that made the island home had a thriving agricultural society.

RECENT HISTORY

In 1901, the US military established a base on Culebra, and this had long-term negative impacts on the island’s people. The base’s construction forced the resettlement of many people and closed parts of the island of to its residents.

Local people protested this treatment and this eventually led to the US military leaving the island in 1975. However, there is still evidence of this period in the island’s history left scattered across the land, and which you will see when visiting Culebra. From rusting tanks on the beach to unexploded ordinance hidden in the sand and elsewhere, the memory of what the US did to Culebra will not disappear anytime soon.

visiting Culebra

Tank left on Flamenco Beach (c) ABR 2018

In 2017, Hurricane Maria hit the Caribbean with intense force; it decimated Puerto Rico and Culebra with it. Many people with family ties to the island have been forced to leave due to the damage from the hurricane, or from lack of jobs. At the same time, wealthy people from the US and Puerto Rico’s main island have started buying up land on Culebra, with plans to turn this small Caribbean world into their own luxury tourism experience, against the will of the local people.

Bringing community-based tourism in Culebra now might just help local people take back their control of their home and provide jobs for residents as well. So, your Culebra itinerary could actually make a bit of a difference if you do it right.

GETTING THERE

There are two main ways to get to Culebra, and both of them have some complications.

There is a ferry that runs from Fajardo to Culebra multiple times a day, and it is very affordable. However, during busy times of the year the ferry can fill up, with preference being given to residents, and the schedule is not always kept to the standards the Americans or Western Europeans are used to. So, this can be a frustrating experience, although I had no issues with it at all when I went. I would suggest getting to the ferry terminal early in order to insure that you can get tickets and bring a book along in case you need some extra entertainment for scheduling hiccups.

visiting culebra

Getting off of the ferry onto Culebra (c) ABR 2018

Several small airlines can also facilitate visiting Culebra. They fly from San Juan or Ceiba Airport. In April 2017, we found these companies very hard to contact and were unable to buy tickets for a flight. However, many travelers have had better luck with this mode of transport than the ferries in the past. We did fly Vieques Air Link to Vieques successfully, however, and they do fly to Culebra as well.

WHERE TO STAY

Not a giant hotel.

Ok seriously though. There are some big players that are interested in Culebra and local people are struggling to maintain control of their home. If you stay in one of the small, locally owned hotels in the main village, you can make a difference. Give your money to the local community and get a taste of day-to-day life in your Culebra itinerary.

WHAT TO DO

Flamenco Beach is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean, and even if you end up disagreeing, it is certainly one of the most unique beaches in the region. Visit to enjoy the beautiful water and coast, and see the reclaimed tanks left behind on the beach.

visiting culebra

Flamenco Beach (c) ABR 2018

Playa Tamarindo is another beautiful beach, which is known to be a nesting beach for turtles. Due to this, if you visit, please be careful and keep your distance from any turtles or nests that you might notice.

If you are a hiker, visiting Culebra is right up your alley, because there are several trails that you can explore, and most take you to a beautiful beach. Puerto Rico Day Trips has a detailed post about your options.

visiting culebra

Driving around on Culebra (c) ABR 2018

Culebra is the perfect place to go for a bike ride. It’s not a huge island, so you can see just about everything from the back of your bicycle. If this isn’t an option for you, not to worry. You can rent a jeep in town and take a lovely drive across the island.

Visit the Museum of Culebra and learn more about the history of this little island. The museum is sure to lend some more nuance to what you’ve already learned. The museum hours are a little bit limited, so you might want to call ahead before visiting. (787.617.8517)

visiting culebra

Colorful buildings in Culebra (c) ABR 2018

TIPS FOR THE ISLAND

(1) Do not pick up or handle anything unidentified on the beach or elsewhere.  Culebra was once used for military exercises and unexploded ordinances are still found around the island to this day. Sometimes, people get hurt by what they find. If you find anything questionable, please stay away and report it to authorities so that they can assess the situation.

(2) Many people take a ferry to Culebra for the day and bring all of their own food. Sadly, this means that the only money they spend in the community is on the ferry. You can do a lot of good for the people of Culebra by eating out while visiting the island. There is some really good food here, and the prices are reasonable. If you are a budget traveler, consider going grocery shopping once you are on the island.

visiting culebra

Some very tasty food on Culebra (c) ABR 2018

If you are looking for more to do in Puerto Rico be sure to take a look at our guide.

visiting culebra

visiting culebra

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